Excitment shutdown by building computer fail

February 22nd, 2014

Alright so yesterday I decided to go purchase a new graphics card and PSU, I have a small prebuilt computer. I was expecting to pay about $150 for what I wanted, I go there I find a graphics card for about $90 but since I have a small prebuilt PC I couldnt fit ANY new PSU, so what they recommended me was buy a new case which came with a new PSU, which I did. So I got the Sentey Case Black Box Series BX1-4234 Version 2.1. I get home, i take apart my old computer, switch everything over and put it in the new case, hit the power button, nothing. I have been trying to do the process of elimination and turns out its something to do with the PSU. I plugged my old PSU into the motherboard, (harddrive, P1 and aswell as P2) and hit the power, turned on no problem, infact I am on it right now, I plug my other PSU back in and nothing.
Someone please help me with this? I am not sure how to do this.

Answer #1
sorry misread
Answer #2
andy1033 replied: sorry misread
Pointless comment?..
Before you installed the new parts did it run ok? check that the power cable has not un-attached itself. or maybe you nocked it. make sure the fuse hasnt blown. check all the obvious things before deciding to take it apart again..but if it dosent work,,Take out the new part and re-place with old one..
if it runs smoothly then re-attached and try again…then if nothing re-ask on this post and ill assist
Answer #3
This may sound dumb but I have to ask,Did you actually turn the PSU on? They come off by default and usually have a black
on/off switch in the back,If that’s not it,Then it’s obvious that it’s DOA and you have to replace it. For the record,PSU’s that come
with cases are always cheap junk (except for those that come with Antec ones),You really should invest $60-70 for a quality 450-500w
PSU from the likes of Antec,OCZ,Corsair,A cheapo can easily fry your PC one day.
Answer #4
Have you got a multimeter to test the PSU ?
Answer #5
gilly replied: Have you got a multimeter to test the PSU ?
It doesn’t even turn on,What is there to test?
Answer #6
Try another psu? And i agree with Roberto400 you should never skimp on the PSU i allways guy either OCZ / Corsair etc…
If the PSU has gone depending on when you bought it just RMA it
Answer #7
Thank you for the replies.
@3banks, yes I have done that. I hooked my old PSU and it works perfectly fine i am on it RIGHT now with the old PSU. But to use my new graphics card I need to use my new PSU
@Roberto, Yes I have done that I have checked everything and its not a crap PSU, its a 600W PSU. More then enough for what I need
Btw does anyone have a Pin layout for a WG43M motherboard?
Answer #8
MystikMyndz replied:
@Roberto, Yes I have done that I have checked everything and its not a crap PSU, its a 600W PSU. More then enough for what I need

I guarantee you it is a crappy PSU,The watts doesn’t mean anything,You got a lot to learn on this.
Anyhow as said,You should replace it.
Answer #9
Why replace something brand new, replacing it would involve taking my ENTIRE computer apart again as id have to return the entire unit.
Answer #10
Why argue over a pointless matter? It’s simple,You got a defective piece of hardware,You replace it or buy a new one,That’s just
the way it goes!,You could probably take the PSU alone for a replacement and not the whole case too,But again,I recommend you just
get a quality PSU,Otherwise you might regret it later on.
Answer #11
Chances of it being defective are slim, I been googling all morning and it seems everyone has problems with hooking up a new PSU and their computer not turning on after, yet old PSU still works. All types of PSU’s aswell as different motherboards etc. There is obviously something else wrong which is why I posted in the first place to figure out just what, if I wouldve came to conclusion of it being defective id already be at the store replacing it
Answer #12
Each case to it’s own,You can’t rely on Google for this.
Fact is that the PSU is DOA,Plain and simple,It does happen sometimes!
Let’s sum up the facts:
1. Your motherboard is ATX and the PSU is ATX too,There’s no reason to the pin layout to mismatch in any way.
2. You didn’t forget to turn the PSU on from the back switch.
3. It turned on just fine when you re-connected the old PSU.
4. Judging from #3,You clearly know how to correctly hook up a PSU.
Answer #13
Roberto400 replied: gilly replied: Have you got a multimeter to test the PSU ?
It doesn't even turn on,What is there to test?

I was presuming that he wanted to eliminate what was wrong with the psu itself by opening it up and taking a look, rather than simply take it back for a replacement.
Answer #14
gilly replied:
I was presuming that he wanted to eliminate what was wrong with the psu itself by opening it up and taking a look, rather than simply take it back for a replacement.

That would void the warranty,And what exactly was he suppose to do after opening it? Your seriously advising a person who has no knowledge
in electronics to open up a PSU? He wouldn’t have the first clue what to do or test.
Answer #15
Problem is still happening. I was messing around with it for a few hours got a few other things sorted out but still no luck with the new PSU
Answer #16
Like Roberto400 said, go ahead and take the PSU back to get either a refund or an exchange. You have nothing to lose…
Answer #17
I didn’t read any of the responses, but you might have something shorted out.
Answer #18
Roberto400 replied: gilly replied:
I was presuming that he wanted to eliminate what was wrong with the psu itself by opening it up and taking a look, rather than simply take it back for a replacement.

That would void the warranty,And what exactly was he suppose to do after opening it? Your seriously advising a person who has no knowledge
in electronics to open up a PSU? He wouldn't have the first clue what to do or test.

You do not need a degree in electrical engineering to test a psu, it’s not rocket science. I was only going down that route as MystikMyndz seems to be adamant that he is not going to RMA it.
@MystikMyndz – if it is a dual-voltage psu, check that the voltage selector switch is fully turned to your local supply voltage (110/220 volt)
Answer #19
gilly replied: You do not need a degree in electrical engineering to test a psu, it's not rocket science.
Your kidding,Right? Were not talking about plain voltage measuring here as it doesn’t even power up,Were talking about
opening it up! And yes one certainly needs a degree in electrical engineering to repair a bad PSU,How else would he be able
to tell which exact components are faulty & replace em? Just common sense. No testing is even needed to begin with,His old PSU works fine so..
gilly replied: if it is a dual-voltage psu, check that the voltage selector switch is fully turned to your local supply voltage (110/220 volt)
I guarantee you that’s not the case,If it was,It would’ve go boom long time ago,That’s what happens when it’s set incorrectly,Set that aside,Most modern PSUs have automatic voltage detection,And also,A PC shop will never sell a PSU set to the wrong voltage
Answer #20
Roberto400 replied: gilly replied: You do not need a degree in electrical engineering to test a psu, it's not rocket science.
Your kidding,Right? Were not talking about plain voltage measuring here as it doesn't even power up,Were talking about
opening it up! And yes one certainly needs a degree in electrical engineering to repair a bad PSU,How else would he be able
to tell which exact components are faulty & replace em? Just common sense. No testing is even needed to begin with,His old PSU works fine so..
gilly replied: if it is a dual-voltage psu, check that the voltage selector switch is fully turned to your local supply voltage (110/220 volt)
I guarantee you that's not the case,If it was,It would've go boom long time ago,That's what happens when it's set incorrectly,Set that aside,Most modern PSUs have automatic voltage detection,And also,A PC shop will never sell a PSU set to the wrong voltage

Please note in my post – it says fully. If it is in the middle it will not allow power through.
Answer #21
gilly replied: Please note in my post - it says fully. If it is in the middle it will not allow power through.
The odds of that to be the case are slim to none.
Answer #22
Btw does anyone have a Pin layout for a WG43M motherboard?
you mean for the power switch & activity lights
this shows you the 2 wires/connections you need to jump on the PSU to see if it “starts up” (fan should run)
http://dodji.seketeli.com/downloads/shuttle-psu-paper-clip-test.pdf
Answer #23
edwoodweb replied: Btw does anyone have a Pin layout for a WG43M motherboard?
you mean for the power switch & activity lights
this shows you the 2 wires/connections you need to jump on the PSU to see if it "starts up" (fan should run)
http://dodji.seketeli.com/downloads/shuttle-psu-paper-clip-test.pdf

That test is mainly used to eliminate a dodgy power switch on the computer itself
Answer #24
That test is mainly used to eliminate a dodgy power switch on the computer itself
no
that test is to see if the PSU will start up
it can help when diagnosing a power switch by tell you if the PSU is good or bad
but MystikMyndz’s power switch seems fine as it starts the old PSU
if it is the PSU that’s bad see if they will open another case and swap out the PSU
Answer #25
if power doesn’t pass through the psu it’s the psu so dump it back to the pc shop where you bought it & next time let the guys at the shop install it!

 

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