Help on new build pc
January 20th, 2020
Antec 900 case
A Asus Commander motherboard I think and a 700W Antec SLI ready power supply
first of all asus ftw . secondly if you wait a little while the q6600 will be quite out dated and you will be able to get a much better quad. I would prefer the new line dual 3ghz especially for big gaming. enjoy ur comp
Go for a ASUS Mobo IMO. You have a good budget , so you may want some high-end parts. Q6600 a is quite expensive but is one of the best, if not the best, processor around. I would go for a 8800 GTS video card if you want some backbone. This pieces will last for a while I think You can hang with ’em for a while. I would go for 2 fans and 1 power supply that can hang with all that or IF you can afford it go for water cooling
The Asus Maximus Extreme and Asus Maximus Formula are two good “enthusiast” Mobo with excellent overclockability. I have been looking at the latter one myself. It is available in two forms, the first uses DDR III and the second DDR II. DDR II is more cost effective at the moment.
This board is meant to be the best overclocking board available, beating the best overclocking motherbaords made by DFI. My current Mobo is made by DFI.
Q6600 is a quad core. Get the Energy Efficient 95W edition G0 Stepping version and overclock as far as it will go. They sell for �152 delivered from eBuyer.
It’s what I would like myself as I need a faster PC to speed up video encoding.
Thanks for the input……….I have been searching around for the past few hours and this is what I have come up with:
Asus Maximus Formula Intel X38 ATX Motherboard
Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600 Energy Efficient 95W edition Socket 775 – G0 Stepping L2 8MB Cache OEM Processor
New Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 PRO P4 Socket 775
OCZ 4GB (2x2GB) DDR2 800Mhz PC2-6400 – Gold edition XTC
8800GTS 512MB Dual DVI HDTV Out PCI-E Graphics Card
Coolermaster RealPower 700W Modular PSU
Seagate ST3500320AS 500GB Hard Drive SATA II 7200rpm *32MB Cache* ANTEC P180B case
Can anyone see any major problems or anything that could be improved upon.
You would be wise to check them out thoroughly before purchasing. What voltage they require is very important as some require massive amounts of voltage to get to the speeds they are rated at. Massive voltage means they are at or close to their limits and will not overclock well. DDR2 is meant to be 1.8V, many run at 2.2V, some have to run at 2.6V. That is the lowest voltage for DDR I memory and each successive generation of memory is meant to work at lower voltages.
I use OCZ memory and it is pretty good (DDRI). I would check to see what other people are finding to be the best price/performance/overclockable memory. People are very easily getting those CPU’s to 3GHz easily with no voltage increases. Running at standard speeds is for granddads. lol It might be enough today for most things but extending the systems usability for longer is going to require a speed boost. I built my system over 3 years ago and have to overclock it to encode video at a reasonable rate. It still comes no where near more recent systems. Overclocks to 2.4GHz (max is about 2.6GHz) but temperatures get high. I won’t use noisy fans.
Do extensive checking on Memory before ordering as it is an extremely important part. Check the web to see how the memory you are interested in performs. But you cannot go to far wrong with OCZ.
The Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 PRO P4 Socket 775 is inexpensive and performs quite well but the Scythe Mugen (Infinity) Socket 478, 754, 940, 775, 939 & AM2 CPU Cooler performs better. So does the Tuniq tower, Thermalright Ultra-120 & 120 Extreme. It depends on noise and how important that is to you.
It might be worth considering water cooling as there is a version of that mobo which has water cooling options for northbridge cooling. check which version you are getting. For me water cooling seems a bit of a nuisance having to replace the water to avoid it becoming dirty from contamination/bacteria.
check these, some links I had open in my browser for a few days
http://www.shop4memory.com/
http://www.pc-memory-upgrade.co.uk/
http://www.memoryc.com/
http://www.patriotmemory.com/
http://www.ebuyer.com/product/127427/show_product_reviews
http://www.silentpcreview.com/article285-page5.html
http://www.cpu3d.com/content/view/2287/54/1/13/
I have never ordered from overclockers, I have seen reports of poor service from some people.
Sorry bout that it double posted.
Ok seeing as you dont need a top notch graphics card and also you wont need the top of the end Asus motherboard unless you want to massively overclock which isn’t needed anyway..I have chosen these for you…inc VAT the price is �761 this will leave you enough money to either put towards a new monitor or a couple more hard drives.
You don’t really need a PSU over 520w this one will be efficient enough even if you purchased 2 of the graphics that are in this picture. You don’t really need a crossfire motherboard but I chose this one because it has DDR2 & DDR3 slots onboard so good for future proofing.
The PC8500 memory is also not needed for this processor you only need PC5400 …but you will see many users buying PC6400 …the only ones buying PC8500 are the ones wanting over 4GHz overclocks which I don’t think you will be doing. The OCZ are a good choice though because some boards tend to be very unstable with 4x1GB sticks in and these are 2x2GB sticks so will be more stable.
The case is by Lian Li which are excellent cases and will probably last you for years…excellent build quality in these cases…I have the V2100+2 case and it’s a beauti.
By the way I order quite alot from overclockers and they have a excellent service.
He would be better off with a high efficiency larger PSU. That way he will not need to replace it if he builds a new system 2 years from now. Getting a PSU that “just” runs a current system is not ideal if he has to scrap it for his next build. I purchased my PSU (a 480Watt Tagan) over 3 years ago, yet I would use it now to build a new system using many of the components I listed and expect it to work using only some adapters for PCI-e power (2 molex to 1 PCI-e). The gfx card I would purchase would be low end (8600GT maybe).
A larger PSU does not mean more electric used. PSU’s do not work that way. Getting the highest efficiency PSU would be an advantage (Seasonic make some of the highest efficiency PSU’s or did do the last time I looked)
But my PSU is over 3 years old so has more of it’s power allocated to the 5 volt rail whereas newer PSU’s have more power on the more important 12 volt rail(s) as newer equipment uses the 12 volt rail for the majority of things (CPU, Graphics cards, hard drive motors, fans). So if less power is taken up on the 3.3 and 5 volt rails it could provide more on the important 12volt rail(s) where it is most needed now.
The corsair 620watt has excellent voltage stability from a review I just read but the efficiency is not the best. Mine is about 85% efficient, Seasonic where even better in this respect when I purchased getting to about 90% efficiency, leading the market for efficiency. They were poor 3+ years ago for power where I needed it (certain rails did not have enough power for what I needed 3 years ago)
This is what I mean by my comments about overclockers. Some people don’t have any trouble but others do. It is the same with many companies. I have never had a problem with eBuyer, yet others complain about their returns policy. Yet I have returned stuff and had a full and quick refund including the return delivery costs with no problems>
http://www.resellerratings.com/store/Overclockers_co_uk
Cases are a very personal choice so cannot really be recommended. I would only recommend that it uses large fans (120cm) and have fans in front of the hard drive bays so that cool air is blown across the hard drives. Plus some SilenX case fans (120cm)
Personally I would prefer the Asus Maximus Formula over the P35 boards. It is a far nicer motherboard, has 2 gigabit ethernets (required as I would network my PC’s) and is very overclocker friendly. CMOS clear on the outside of the case instead of having to remove the case cover and go fishing inside for a CMOS clear jumper.
Getting a Energy efficiency CPU and then not overclocking it is a waste when they can easily hit 3GHz and go much further fairly easily (3.4GHz is not difficult). All for a little extra on a decent motherboard.
The 520w corsair is efficient enough for any system which he needs..like he said he doesn�t need a fantastic graphics card and the 520w corsair is good enough to power most graphics cards in Crossfire mode. The Corsair will also last him for alot more than 2years it is under warranty for 5 years that shows you how good of a PSU it is. If you also knew about the Corsair they�re actually made by Seasonic.
With all cases you can buy your own fans, which to me is the best way of doing so anyway because most of the cheap cases come with crap fans which give out so much noise with little air flow. All Lian Li cases are built to the highest of standards and their fans are quite good also.
Yes you would choose the Asus maximus *personally* but this person doesn�t need a motherboard like that..even the one I picked would be too much for him.
The energy efficient Q6600 is cheaper than the normal Q6600 and again he might not be overclocking so really the separate cooler is not needed which will save him more money. He also would get the Q6600 to 3.4Ghz on the motherboard I picked so the maximus is not worth the extra �120 it cost. I had my Q6600 @ 3.7Ghz on the Asus P5B Deluxe board with PC6400 memory but all this about overclocking doesn’t help this guy purchasing a new system does it..when he’s not even mentioning the word overclock.
DDR2 & DDR3 slots onboard so good for future proofing.
A total fallacy, if a person buys 4GB of DDR2 now (like he is), he is not going to keep the same motherboard and throw out his DDR2 and buy DDR3 is he? So where is the future proofing in that? The motherboard will be retired before he buys DDR3 so totally pointless having DDR3 slots and a limited amount of DDR3 slots at that. It’s a gimmicky feature.
The 520w corsair is efficient enough for any system which he needs..like he said he doesn�t need a fantastic graphics card and the 520w corsair is good enough to power most graphics cards in Crossfire mode. The Corsair will also last him for alot more than 2years it is under warranty for 5 years that shows you how good of a PSU it is. If you also knew about the Corsair they�re actually made by Seasonic.
If a person purchases a PSU he should think about what he is likely to be using in a few years time. What system he may put together in that time so he only needs to invest in a PSU once. Buying an insufficient PSU is foolish just because it will power the system he is just about to build no matter how long the warranty. Thinking ahead and purchasing with that in mind is a good idea if you have any plans on rebuilding the PC in the future. Getting a larger PSU (and I am not referring to a 800 or 1KW PSU just something around 600+watts) will mean it can be used in future builds and keep some in reserve for expansion. Getting one with little in reserve will limit it’s future usage and may have to be replaced yet again in his next build. He says he has used Asus MoboS in the past so he is not a beginner with building systems so I believe he should get a PSU that will be able to power, this system and his next build at the very least. but this person doesn�t need a motherboard like that..even the one I picked would be too much for him.
You bestow that on him and he is not worthy. lol
The whole tone of your post is very condescending and makes him out as if he is some nube who does not know one end of a computer from the other, whereas I think he is fairly experienced at building PC’s but the ones he has built where using previous generation components (maybe Athlon XP’s or P4’s and the like) and he just needed some help “getting up to date” with the current boards and CPU’s. How do you know “this person” doesn’t need a motherboard like that? Do you know him personally? How can you tell from what he has posted in this topic? Maybe he will have his mates round and need to network their PC’s and have an internet connection at the same time. Maybe he enjoys overclocking systems/graphics cards already and would like a motherboard that caters for that.
I suspect he has overclocked his systems and would appreciate not having to open up his PC to clear the CMOS every time an overclock failed. I also suspect he has more than one PC as most people who build their own PC’s have and having the ability to network them would be an advantage. That rules out the P35 chipset unless a separate card is purchased to enable networking PC’s and broadband use at the same time.
The only thing he has said is he is not a gamer but he wants a graphics card with some backbone. He has not said he will not be overclocking or will never try it. If a person builds PC’s then they are highly likely to overclock or try overclocking at the very least. I do it and always have done. For a CPU which is easy to overclock only a little old lady (you know the one’s who drive at 10mph lol) would run it at it’s default speed and be happy.
I had my Q6600 @ 3.7Ghz on the Asus P5B Deluxe board with PC6400 memory but all this about overclocking doesn't help this guy purchasing a new system does it..when he's not even mentioning the word overclock.
And I bet you had to open up your Lian Li case constantly to get it to 3.7GHz to clear the CMOS with that motherboard and having looked at Lian Li cases when I was purchasing my case I was not impressed with either their build quality (the finish was poor) or their accessibility, they were a damn nuisance to get into. The Asus Maximus Formula has CMOS clear button on the back near the output ports so opening up the case is unnecessary.
If he is not a gamer then I think a fairly high graphics card such as the 8800GTS 512MB is a bit of a waste of money and power as those cards use around 70watts of power when idling (125+ watts for 3D work) if the figures I have seen are to be believed. That’s a lot of power and probably the largest single thing in a modern PC for power usage (Q6600 around 20 watts idling). All for something that is not going to get much usage (Games are the the only real reason for a high end graphics card as any fast CPU can do hi def decoding as good as a graphics card and yet are far more power efficient being able to reduce the frequency and voltage when not required. I personally do not game and if I was purchasing a graphics card I would get a lower card which does the basics using the least amount of power providing it has HDTV output. Having a high end graphics card running 24/7 will really push up the electric bills and I certainly know about that with mine using about 50 watts idling. I have two main reasons why I would build a new PC and those are 1/ for a faster PC for video encoding and maybe Hi Def video decoding and 2/ to reduce the power requirement as running mine 24/7 gets very expensive as it has no real power saving capabilities. Doing nothing like it is at the moment it is using 150 watts (excluding the monitor, including that totals 255 watts). But it is all about opinions and what’s good for one(you) might not be good enough for someone else, especially as you do not really know their background and uses.
A total fallacy, if a person buys 4GB of DDR2 now (like he is), he is not going to keep the same motherboard and throw out his DDR2 and buy DDR3 is he? So where is the future proofing in that? The motherboard will be retired before he buys DDR3 so totally pointless having DDR3 slots and a limited amount of DDR3 slots at that. It's a gimmicky feature.
The motherboard will be retired before he buys DDR3? What are you going on about. It might be a gimmicky feature but it works for someone who is thinking of upgrading from DDR2 to DDR3 memory in the future to support the new Intel Wolfdale, Kentsfield, Yorkfield processors which all use a higher FSB and DDR3 memory is the best option for these processors so a so called *gimmicky* feature doesn�t seem so gimmicky anymore to most people. There�s 2 DDR3 slots on this board which is enough for 4GB of DDR3 sticks how much memory does one person need. Your assumption of this board is wrong I�m afraid and a board that cost �120 less is a much better option for someone who doesn�t need a overclockers board.
If a person purchases a PSU he should think about what he is likely to be using in a few years time. What system he may put together in that time so he only needs to invest in a PSU once. Buying an insufficient PSU is foolish just because it will power the system he is just about to build no matter how long the warranty. Thinking ahead and purchasing with that in mind is a good idea if you have any plans on rebuilding the PC in the future. Getting a larger PSU (and I am not referring to a 800 or 1KW PSU just something around 600+watts) will mean it can be used in future builds and keep some in reserve for expansion. Getting one with little in reserve will limit it's future usage and may have to be replaced yet again in his next build. He says he has used Asus MoboS in the past so he is not a beginner with building systems so I believe he should get a PSU that will be able to power, this system and his next build at the very least.
The main thing here is we�re trying to tell a person who doesn�t need a PSU that outputs so much and to be honest the 520w corsair puts out more wattage than it says on the tin. There is no need to go over the top with power when a PSU like the corsair can handle many high spec systems now..but are we talking about a high spec system here no we�re not. Again the 520w corsair will last him 5 years maybe more and 5 years to me is enough for any PC. Put it this way if he purchased a 700w PSU now who says in 5 years that 700w PSU is going to be good enough to power any system by that time so it wouldn�t matter if he purchased a 520w now would it because the 700w could become obsolete also. We�re talking about now the present time where he doesn�t need a PSU of that size for a PC that doesn�t need so much power 520w is good enough.
The whole tone of your post is very condescending and makes him out as if he is some nube who does not know one end of a computer from the other, whereas I think he is fairly experienced at building PC's but the ones he has built where using previous generation components (maybe Athlon XP's or P4's and the like) and he just needed some help "getting up to date" with the current boards and CPU's. How do you know "this person" doesn't need a motherboard like that? Do you know him personally? How can you tell from what he has posted in this topic? Maybe he will have his mates round and need to network their PC's and have an internet connection at the same time. Maybe he enjoys overclocking systems/graphics cards already and would like a motherboard that caters for that.
No m8 you have read into that last statement so wrong. It doesn�t mean I am trying to belittle the guy in anyway I don�t know him in anyway either. I am trying to help this guy and giving him advice on what he asked for and not going over the top like you have done in your post, so to be honest you seem to be the one trying to tell the guy to buy something he doesn�t need and giving him the wrong advice.
I suspect he has overclocked his systems and would appreciate not having to open up his PC to clear the CMOS every time an overclock failed. I also suspect he has more than one PC as most people who build their own PC's have and having the ability to network them would be an advantage. That rules out the P35 chipset unless a separate card is purchased to enable networking PC's and broadband use at the same time.
The only thing he has said is he is not a gamer but he wants a graphics card with some backbone. He has not said he will not be overclocking or will never try it. If a person builds PC's then they are highly likely to overclock or try overclocking at the very least. I do it and always have done. For a CPU which is easy to overclock only a little old lady (you know the one's who drive at 10mph lol) would run it at it's default speed and be happy. .
Again you mention the word overclock he hasn�t mentioned the word overclock so why keep going on about it? The Asus maximus is a board designed by a overclocker for overclockers but he doesn�t want to overclock so why keep mentioning it and why by a board that cost nearly double the amount he needs to spend on one doesn�t make any sense at all.
Why do you suspect he has more than one PC? Now it�s you thinking you know this guy <shakes head> Why does it rule out the P35 chipset when networking any PC�s together it�s not the chipset your networking it�s the PC�s sorry but that comment there m8 doesn�t make any sense whatsoever. All you need is a networking card and 2 PC�s m8 the chipset wont stop you from networking them in anyway.
And I bet you had to open up your Lian Li case constantly to get it to 3.7GHz to clear the CMOS with that motherboard and having looked at Lian Li cases when I was purchasing my case I was not impressed with either their build quality (the finish was poor) or their accessibility, they were a damn nuisance to get into. The Asus Maximus Formula has CMOS clear button on the back near the output ports so opening up the case is unnecessary. .
Why on earth would I want to open my case constantly to get it to 3.7Ghz when I overclock VIA the BIOS? There was no need at all to clear the CMOS because I know exactly what I am doing. I can�t believe you were not impressed with the build of Lian Li cases to say their build quality is poor and their accessibility is poor sounds like its coming from someone who hasn�t got a clue about these cases @ all. These cases are huge and spacious plenty of room in them for mostly anything you can put in them and are probably the best built cases money can buy. So a CMOS clear button on the back of the motherboard is going to make me spend a difference of �120 just so I don�t have to open my case to clear the CMOS? Lol I don�t think so I know what I would purchase and that other �120 can go towards something worth while than a lazy button that probably won�t be used by 95% of users anyway.
If he is not a gamer then I think a fairly high graphics card such as the 8800GTS 512MB is a bit of a waste of money and power as those cards use around 70watts of power when idling (125+ watts for 3D work) if the figures I have seen are to be believed. That's a lot of power and probably the largest single thing in a modern PC for power usage (Q6600 around 20 watts idling). All for something that is not going to get much usage (Games are the the only real reason for a high end graphics card as any fast CPU can do hi def decoding as good as a graphics card and yet are far more power efficient being able to reduce the frequency and voltage when not required. I personally do not game and if I was purchasing a graphics card I would get a lower card which does the basics using the least amount of power providing it has HDTV output. Having a high end graphics card running 24/7 will really push up the electric bills and I certainly know about that with mine using about 50 watts idling. I have two main reasons why I would build a new PC and those are 1/ for a faster PC for video encoding and maybe Hi Def video decoding and 2/ to reduce the power requirement as running mine 24/7 gets very expensive as it has no real power saving capabilities. Doing nothing like it is at the moment it is using 150 watts (excluding the monitor, including that totals 255 watts). .
He said he wasn�t a gamer in the post but would like a decent card and the 8800GTS is a bit of an overkill cost too much and uses too much power. The one I chose cost at least �60 less in some places will offer him decent game play uses less power than the GTS thats good enough for me. The ATI card is very good @ decoding with the new improved UVD you can also decode with the hardware built into the GPU on these cards leaving the CPU to do whatever it likes.
But it is all about opinions and what's good for one(you) might not be good enough for someone else, especially as you do not really know their background and uses.
Same goes to you also m8 *you* don�t know their background also but what the hell as this got to do with giving someone advice? Nothing at all.
At the end of the day it’s upto him and what he wants not what we thinks best…he can choose his own mind up what he needs..it’s his money not ours. We’re just giving him advice he can either take advice off one or the other doesn’t make much difference to me I have give him my advice simple as.