Computer won’t boot on first try
August 7th, 2016
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Try delaying the time the mobo does to read the HDD. It should be in advanced options inside BIOS (advanced CMOS setup for older phoenix). You’ll find a “delay for HDD” option or sth similar. Set it to a bigger value and try again.
Then how did you post this?
Because i said my computer won’t boot only after the first time i press the power button…when i reboot it with the reset button it starts fine 0.0
Jack_Torrance wrote: Select all
Try delaying the time the mobo does to read the HDD. It should be in advanced options inside BIOS (advanced CMOS setup for older phoenix). You’ll find a “delay for HDD” option or sth similar. Set it to a bigger value and try again.
Tried that..didn’t work =\
Answer #4
Your gonna have to be more specific. What exactly happens? Do you see the BIOS screen?
Also, Provide your system specs.
You do know that a person can have more than one computer, Right? Tablets & Smartphones can have Internet too. In this case, The OP used the same PC and didn’t explain himself properly at first, But still, You shouldn’t make assumptions.
Answer #5
There can be several causes for the problem, but if it’s a desktop:
Check if all cables inside are connected properly
Check the hardware on another computer if possible or memory test the RAM, could be defective RAM or mobo
If laptop: Give it to the shop in which you bought it if the warranty still covers
Answer #6
It’s a desktop..and i did that..still nothing.
And for :
Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit (6. 1, Build 7601)
System Manufacturer: Gigabye Technology CO., Ltd.
System Model: P43T-ES3G
BIOS: Award Modular BIOS v6.00PG
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E7500 @ 2.93GHz (2 CPUs), ~2.9GHz
Graphics Card: Nvidia GeForce GTS 450
Memory: 2048MB RAM
Answer #7
That’s a start, But you still haven’t been specific enough^^
Answer #8
that don’t help try booting with out the hard drive connected
if you get to the boot screen quicker then it’s probably a HDD problem
get “hard disk sentinel” to check the drive’s health
Answer #9
sir, can you provide us the specs inside your pc?
i mean the hardwares.. hdd,cpu,motherboard,vcard,ram,power supply and fans also
Answer #10
I tried that..still the same problem. and the “hard disk sentinel” says everything is perfect.
Here you go
Answer #11
That’s not it dude, I previously asked you to describe what exactly happens when your PC doesn’t boot:
And I haven’t received an answer so far!
Answer #12
I press the power button, computer takes like 10-15 seconds to get to boot screen when before it got to the screen instantly. after the boot screen it says “Loading Windows” and whatever. but after that it gets to a black-grey screen and gets stuck on that. only after i restart the computer with the reset button it gets to the boot screen as always, and then loads the windows normally.
Answer #13
Do you mean it takes 10-15 secs til you see anything on screen at all or that you do see the post (BIOS screen) and then you get a black screen that holds up for 10-15 secs til you see “loading windows”? If you have a smartphone just take a video.
Answer #14
if you have time, try reseating your pc components.. clean them.. and check for bloated capacitors
on the video card/motherboard.. try booting without your vcard.. use onboard..
Answer #15
Ok ill try that but i think i did something similar and it didn’t work..
Ok, i took a video:
Answer #16
Definitely a hardware issue, Not HDD related it seems as you already ruled that out.
Anyways, What PSU do you have? Provide the exact model, Not the watts – This cannot
be determined by software! Your gonna have to open the case and have a look at the sticker.
Do you have any 3rd party expansion cards? Wireless/TV/Sound? If you do, Maybe one of em is causing it, So try removing it. Try disconnecting your DVD drive too. Get Aida64 from the apps section and provide a screenshot from computer>sensor. Resetting the BIOS might help as well, Just remove the motherboard battery and leave it out for 10 minutes (and make sure the + sign is facing the top when you re-attach it) Do note that this has to be done while the power cord is disconnected, Otherwise it’s not gonna work! Anyways, After it’s done, Your gonna have to enter the BIOS and load defaults, configure the time & date and the boot order accordingly.
Answer #17
saw the video.. hmmm just a wild guess its either a mobo/psu working wrong here
try to open your rig, and after pressing the ON button check out for the PSU if it turns on after pressing
of if not then that’s the culprit here.. and if the PSU works well.. then this will be going to be
a trial and error isolation process..
Answer #18
my PSU:
HPC POWER SUPPLY
Model NO: ATX3050 (600 WATT)
No 3rd party expansion cards, but there is a new problem!
I removed the BIOS battery, waited 10 mins and then put it back, and now my computer turns off 3 seconds immediately after i press the power button! i can’t even get to the boot screen, it shuts down right away! (im writing from another computer)
Answer #19
Did you remove or disconnect anything else by mistake?
Your PSU is cheap junk and I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s what’s causing it, Maybe it was
already on it’s way out and just crapped out completely. Another possibility is overheating (CPU)
but unless you fiddled with the heatsink, That’s unlikely. Do you have another PSU to try, Or a digital multimeter?
Answer #20
oh another problem.. so how many years does this rig serves you?
you might want to change that cmos battery of yours.. or if still new/months/ 1 year old
then you just returned the battery loose.. recheck it again..
and about the PSU, got some point on it.. if you have some budget, try to consider
80+ certified PSU..
Answer #21
So far no luck..i have other PSU’s but they don’t fit the motherboard..also i tried putting other cmos batteries from older computers
, still the same problem. and my original battery is…3 years old i guess. so is the problem really in the PSU?
Answer #22
My moneys on the PSU. There is another way to test it. Usually when you press the power button, The motherboard sends a power on signal to the PSU, You can however bypass it and hotwire the PSU so it’d power up directly, Then if you see it still turns off, Then it has be at fault! Instructions:
1. Remove the power cord.
2. Disconnect the main (20/24PIN) connector from the motherboard and the 4PIN one too.
3. Take a metal paperclip and bend it, Put one end in the green wire and another in one of the blacks, Here’s an example:
4. Make sure it’s either up in the air or place it on top of a cardboard (you don’t want the paperclip to touch the case!) 5. Re-attach the power cord and see what happens.
Answer #23
Ok, so i did as you said, i connected the metal paperclip and the fans of the PSU and the side fan (the one that’s for overheating i think) worked. so i think it means that the PSU is fine?
Answer #24
Do clarify, You mean it works period or works for a few seconds and turns off & on repeatedly?
Answer #25
test it on 1 to 2 hours and don;t turn it off.. just run the PSU
for a couple of hours and try to observe if it turns off and on..
and if the PSU runs fine.. then the mobo might be the culprit here..
Answer #26
I turn on the PC, and the PSU works fine, some fans as i mentioned worked and the computer did not turn off.
Answer #27
I don’t think it’s a hardware issue looking at the vid.
Have you tried repairing Windows by tapping F8 ?
^^Above – using a paperclip with the psu proves nothing except that it is running, it doesn’t show what voltages it is providing, so rather pointless to do this, you can see it’s working from his vid. If he wanted to rule out his psu then he could simply check the output voltages.
It’s always handy to invest in a psu tester like this if you don’t know how to read the service manual and wiring diagram, and use a multi-meter
You can get them much cheaper than that from Hong Kong.
Answer #28
this problem is not connected to the OS
because at the video, it took 20secs to turn the pc on..
maybe(just a guess) you motherboard is grounded to the case..
hmmm when you installed your motherboard on the case, have you seen some brass mount
for the screws? you should put masking tape on each of the brass mount before screwing the motherboard on the case..
Answer #29
I agree with it might be the case causing a short-circuit if the mobo is touching it. Try removing the motherboard from the case (place it on top of a cardboard or a wooden surface) and see how it goes. Also, I suggest you go to an electronics store and buy a digital multimeter, These are fairly cheap, And it’d enable you verify for 100% certainty if the PSU is in the clear or not. I’ll guide you later.
I disagree, It happens before the OS even boots!
And you can also *see* that a new problem has occurred since then, But I guess
you didn’t bother reading thru it all before replying.
It proves that the motherboard shuts it off and that it’s not a problem with the PSU itself (the current issue is that the PSU turns off 3 secs after powering up when it’s connected to the mobo) You are right about the voltages, Maybe further testing is needed.
A multimeter alone would do IMO.
Answer #30
duh – of course I did, I am not a child you are trying to belittle. You need to get some people skills for your posts matey !
*edit* – it could be the BIOS – try re-flashing it.
Or, it could be a flaky SATA controller.
Actually it could be caused by a multitude of things, personally I don’t think it is hardware related, but what do I know, I only repair electronic equipment for a living.
Answer #31
I don’t believe you
Fact is you made no reference whatsoever to the new issue on your previous post (nor your current for that matter!)
There is nothing wrong with my ppl skills, Your just mad because you know I’ve got a point!
And how exactly is he suppose to do that when it won’t even power up properly?!?
And your point is? So you think your some kinda computer expert just because you repair electronics? By that logic, A dentist can be a plastic surgeon too! These are two different fields of expertise!
Answer #32
I tried to put the mobo on top of a cardboard and still nothing changed =\
Answer #33
hmmm i don’t wan’t to conclude yet, you checked the psu
runs fine.. then after checking the motherboard out..
running on top of a cardboard with no metal connected
still the issue persist.. might me a motherboard culprit here..
not so sure.. better wait for
hmmm, try running the system without the videocard,
use onboard graphics on the motherboard
Answer #34
Already tried running the sys without the VC..same situation. yea, better wait.
Answer #35
I had the same problem mate, My PC would boot show the windows screen and then go blank. I would have to keep resetting it hoping it would boot up into the main windows screen. Most of the time i had to go into the bios setting and force it to boot from my harddrive as it would keep changing everything i changed in the bios setting back to it’s old non working setting. After abit i found out it was the BIOS battery that was the problem it was 99% dead but sometimes made it passed the boot screen. I just replaced the bios battery and reset the date and year and saved the setting and know it seems to work Hope my comment has been a little help.
Answer #36
Thank you for the comment, but unfortunately i encountered another problem (you can scroll through the comments to see it, if you could find a solution too i would appreciate it very much )
Answer #37
Well, There’s still the option of overheating, It’s unlikely, But worth checking anyhow.
Try removing the CPU cooler & re-seating it (you would also need to clean up the thermal paste and re-apply) Also, You should buy a digital multimeter to verify the PSU is okay. The test I told you to do proved the mobo shuts it off, But that doesn’t necessarily mean the mobo is bad, Maybe the PSU doesn’t provide stable voltages and it shuts it off as a protective measure.
Answer #38
Oh really? the paste thing should be cleaned up? because i heard it needs to be there to prevent overheating..but i guess you’re right. anyway, i did that, re-attached the CPU cooler and cleaned the thermal paste. still the same. and we own a multimeter and it showed that the PSU is working fine, kept providing electricity as normal. still the problem remains.
Answer #39
That’s not what I said dude:
TP is essential!!
A digital one or a crappy analog? And what exactly did you measure?
Answer #40
Well it’s already too late for the paste (though i knew it was a really stupid move to do) but if there is a way to “install” it again i’ll be glad to know how. and i measured with a digital multimeter, and meausred the CPU for stable voltages and it was ok, no sudden stops.
Answer #41
It’s not too late, Just go to a computer store and buy one! Preferably arctic cooling MX4 if they have it. Just apply a sideways line, I.E:
As far as the multimeter go, I get the distinct feeling that you have no clue how to use it to measure PSU voltages, You probably measured the direct voltage from the power cord, Right?
That’s not what I want you to do at all. The PSU voltages is what you should measure, Let me enlighten you:
1. Connect the probes to the multimeter (black to com, red to the other one)
If your multimeter has 3 inputs (10A one too) then connect the red probe to the other one (NOT to the 10A) 2. Set the dial to 20 DCV, If your not sure where that is, Take a picture and I’ll tell you.
3. Before I get to the how to, I’d like to point out the basics, You should remember that the black probe ALWAYS goes into a black wire. You can disconnect the probes *live* and insert em somewhere else (just be careful) and also, DO NOT turn off the multimeter before you disconnect the probes from the connector your testing.
4. Now to the actual testing, There are a few different ways to do it (and you should use all of em!)
Edit: I forgot for a moment that your PSU turns off when connected to the mobo, Only test the +5VSB when it’s connected to the mobo, The rest of em when it’s disconnected (keep the 24PIN disconnected while your testing via Molex/4PIN too and hotwire it with a paperclip to turn it on)
First way – +5VSB (standby power) & +3/5/12v using the main (20/24 PIN connector) you should do it while it’s still connected to the motherboard! Orange wire – +3V
Red wire – +5V
Yellow wire – +12v
Purple wire – +5VSB (You should measure this one while the PC is powered off with the power cord still attached!)
Remember what I said, The black probe always goes into a black wire, The red, Any of the above^.
Clearly, Your gonna have to insert the probes from the opposite end, Like in this pic for example:
Don’t be afraid to push the probes in, They’ll be solid as rock once you insert em correctly, Just don’t use too much force! Also, If you think your gonna be sloppy and you wanna avoid accidentally inserting the probes into the wrong wire, Then I suggest you first disconnect the power cord, And then insert em & re-attach the cord each time.
Second way – +12v using the 4PIN (CPU power) connector, Which looks like this:
You can disconnect it from the motherboard, Or leave it plugged in, Doesn’t really matter as your gonna be measuring this one from the opposite end too.
Anyways, It has 2 Yellow wires (+12v) and 2 ground ones (Black) so your gonna have to measure
both Yellow’s (and preferably use a different Black wire for each, just for proper testing)
Third way – +5V/12V Using a molex connector, If you don’t know how it looks like, Refer to this pic:
To measure the +12V voltage, Put the Black probe into one of the Blacks and the Red into the Yellow, Like this:
To measure the +5V voltage, Black probe>One of the blacks, Red probe>Yellow, Like this:
Write everything down and report back with your findings! Goodluck.
Answer #42
Im gonna be honest with you,i don’t actually understand most of the things here but my uncle knows alot about electricity and measuring etc. and he read it and he said everything is OK with the PSU and the problem is not about the PSU. sorry that thats the least i can say.
Answer #43
You mean this…
That mobo has dual BIOS chips – I still think it is a BIOS issue, possibly both chips are damaged due to a power surge etc.
This can easily be diagnosed with the right equipment which I doubt the poster has but more than likely a local mom and pop repair shop will have.
OP – Do you use some form of anti-surge protection ?
Do you use power strips that have surge protection – and if so, when was the last time you changed them ? Do you still have any peripherals attached via USB or other method ?
You seem deluded also – I have had people pm’ing me for help as they don’t want to be spoken to like a child or bullied by you. Also, have you noticed at least 5 other posters who have good knowledge of pc’s, monitors and gaming, have stopped posting in this section, from several conversations I have had some are totally fed up with you. You have a pop at people for their grammar and style of posting, that is hard to read – and yet you do exactly the same thing. I am not mad I just think you are a tool, as do many others.
I’m still not sure if he can get it booted into Windows as per his first post ?
A dentist can be trained with plastic surgeon skills, for when they remove impacted wisdom teeth through the cheek – I had two removed like that and have extremely un-noticeable tiny scars. maybe in your Country they don’t receive such training ?
Actually the main part of my job is data recovery, mainly for corporate clients, RAID setups and such, and HDD repairs (yes in a clean room etc) but I often end up having to repair pc’s when we go out on site. If “electronics” doesn’t cover that, (and I have degrees in electrical and electronic engineering) then I can’t see the point of your pointless analogy – what should I have said ? That is just a plain dumb statement. I can also fix VCR’s, TIVO’s clock radios, basically anything I have a bash at, fix them most of the time if they work out cheaper to repair than replacing – which may be the case with the OP’s pc. “Electronics” just seemed to be a word that encpasses what I do – but yet again you try to make me look a fool – which has just back-fired on you big time smarty pants !
I also can’t see why you go on about digital multimeters over crappy analog ones, analog ones can be extremely accurate, If he bought a psu tester like I said he could do it in less than 5 seconds (but that is digital) – the cheap ones just have led’s. He could also test his mobo with an intelligent debug card if so inclined.
As I mentioned earlier, it could be a multitude of things, yes you are correct in that it may be a hardware problem inside the pc, but it could also be outside, and there could be more than one problem that is involved.
It needs stripping and everything testing, if only to rule out hardware issues.
To the OP – what case do you have ? I would love to live around the corner from you and have a look at your system for you.
, I do agree with your recommendation of MX4, so you are a bit less than a tool, my mistake and have a nice day
Answer #44
That’s not much to go on, But if you trust him (and he did all the suggested tests) then it’s probably overheating or a bad mobo. As said before, Re-apply thermal paste.
You are talking nonsense! If certain people PM’d you for help it had NOTHING to do with em not liking me, It’s so obvious you made it up! Yet you call me childish
For the record, I don’t bully anyone and I’m usually very nice & helpful, I do tend to call it as I see it however and some people have a problem with that. I have no control over other posters and it’s really not my problem if they decide to leave. As far as you not being mad, It’s very evident that the opposite is true from the things you wrote. I don’t care about your personal opinion about me, You are free to think whatever you want.
Dentists & Plastic surgeons are trained to do very different procedures, So you cannot claim both to have the same skill set.
A what!?!
LOL. I did not try to make you look like a fool, I just voiced my opinion. And I don’t see how it *back-fired* on me. I never claimed that being an electronics engineer is a useless skill, Just that that skill alone doesn’t cut it when it comes to troubleshooting computer hardware & software problems (and that is what you originally implied in your previous post)
But not as accurate as digital ones!
Not as easy to read either.
Oh please, Why bother making a fake apology?
Try delaying the time the mobo does to read the HDD. It should be in advanced options inside BIOS (advanced CMOS setup for older phoenix). You’ll find a “delay for HDD” option or sth similar. Set it to a bigger value and try again.Tried that..didn’t work =\
and after that the windows won't start for the first timeYour gonna have to be more specific. What exactly happens? Do you see the BIOS screen?
Also, Provide your system specs.
Then how did you post this?You do know that a person can have more than one computer, Right? Tablets & Smartphones can have Internet too. In this case, The OP used the same PC and didn’t explain himself properly at first, But still, You shouldn’t make assumptions.
There can be several causes for the problem, but if it’s a desktop:
Check if all cables inside are connected properly
Check the hardware on another computer if possible or memory test the RAM, could be defective RAM or mobo
If laptop: Give it to the shop in which you bought it if the warranty still covers
There can be several causes for the problem, but if it's a desktop:
Check if all cables inside are connected properly
Check the hardware on another computer if possible or memory test the RAM, could be defective RAM or mobo
If laptop: Give it to the shop in which you bought it if the warranty still coversIt’s a desktop..and i did that..still nothing.
And for :
Operating System: Windows 7 Ultimate 32-bit (6. 1, Build 7601)
System Manufacturer: Gigabye Technology CO., Ltd.
System Model: P43T-ES3G
BIOS: Award Modular BIOS v6.00PG
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM)2 Duo CPU E7500 @ 2.93GHz (2 CPUs), ~2.9GHz
Graphics Card: Nvidia GeForce GTS 450
Memory: 2048MB RAM
That’s a start, But you still haven’t been specific enough^^
Try delaying the time the mobo does to read the HDD.that don’t help try booting with out the hard drive connected
if you get to the boot screen quicker then it’s probably a HDD problem
get “hard disk sentinel” to check the drive’s health
sir, can you provide us the specs inside your pc?
i mean the hardwares.. hdd,cpu,motherboard,vcard,ram,power supply and fans also
Try delaying the time the mobo does to read the HDD.
that don't help try booting with out the hard drive connected
if you get to the boot screen quicker then it's probably a HDD problem
get "hard disk sentinel" to check the drive's healthI tried that..still the same problem. and the “hard disk sentinel” says everything is perfect.
That's a start, But you still haven't been specific enough^^sir, can you provide us the specs inside your pc?
i mean the hardwares.. hdd,cpu,motherboard,vcard,ram,power supply and fans alsoHere you go
That’s not it dude, I previously asked you to describe what exactly happens when your PC doesn’t boot:
and after that the windows won't start for the first time
Your gonna have to be more specific. What exactly happens? Do you see the BIOS screen?
And I haven’t received an answer so far!
That's not it dude, I previously asked you to describe what exactly happens when your PC doesn't boot:
and after that the windows won't start for the first time
Your gonna have to be more specific. What exactly happens? Do you see the BIOS screen?
And I haven't received an answer so far!I press the power button, computer takes like 10-15 seconds to get to boot screen when before it got to the screen instantly. after the boot screen it says “Loading Windows” and whatever. but after that it gets to a black-grey screen and gets stuck on that. only after i restart the computer with the reset button it gets to the boot screen as always, and then loads the windows normally.
Do you mean it takes 10-15 secs til you see anything on screen at all or that you do see the post (BIOS screen) and then you get a black screen that holds up for 10-15 secs til you see “loading windows”? If you have a smartphone just take a video.
if you have time, try reseating your pc components.. clean them.. and check for bloated capacitors
on the video card/motherboard.. try booting without your vcard.. use onboard..
if you have time, try reseating your pc components.. clean them.. and check for bloated capacitors
on the video card/motherboard.. try booting without your vcard.. use onboard.. Ok ill try that but i think i did something similar and it didn’t work..
Do you mean it takes 10-15 secs til you see anything on screen at all or that you do see the post (BIOS screen) and then you get a black screen that holds up for 10-15 secs til you see "loading windows"? If you have a smartphone just take a video. Ok, i took a video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XSD_JuDpgnEPlease remember that all links must be coded,including, but not limited to:
e-mail addresses, passwords, and internal links.
I've coded the link(s) for you this time - if you don't know how to do it, please check the sticky thread in the helpdesk section.
KryptoDefinitely a hardware issue, Not HDD related it seems as you already ruled that out.
Anyways, What PSU do you have? Provide the exact model, Not the watts – This cannot
be determined by software! Your gonna have to open the case and have a look at the sticker.
Do you have any 3rd party expansion cards? Wireless/TV/Sound? If you do, Maybe one of em is causing it, So try removing it. Try disconnecting your DVD drive too. Get Aida64 from the apps section and provide a screenshot from computer>sensor. Resetting the BIOS might help as well, Just remove the motherboard battery and leave it out for 10 minutes (and make sure the + sign is facing the top when you re-attach it) Do note that this has to be done while the power cord is disconnected, Otherwise it’s not gonna work! Anyways, After it’s done, Your gonna have to enter the BIOS and load defaults, configure the time & date and the boot order accordingly.
saw the video.. hmmm just a wild guess its either a mobo/psu working wrong here
try to open your rig, and after pressing the ON button check out for the PSU if it turns on after pressing
of if not then that’s the culprit here.. and if the PSU works well.. then this will be going to be
a trial and error isolation process..
Definitely a hardware issue, Not HDD related it seems as you already ruled that out.
Anyways, What PSU do you have? Provide the exact model, Not the watts - This cannot
be determined by software! Your gonna have to open the case and have a look at the sticker.
Do you have any 3rd party expansion cards? Wireless/TV/Sound? If you do, Maybe one of em is causing it, So try removing it. Try disconnecting your DVD drive too. Get Aida64 from the apps section and provide a screenshot from computer>sensor. Resetting the BIOS might help as well, Just remove the motherboard battery and leave it out for 10 minutes (and make sure the + sign is facing the top when you re-attach it) Do note that this has to be done while the power cord is disconnected, Otherwise it's not gonna work! Anyways, After it's done, Your gonna have to enter the BIOS and load defaults, configure the time & date and the boot order accordingly.my PSU:
HPC POWER SUPPLY
Model NO: ATX3050 (600 WATT)
No 3rd party expansion cards, but there is a new problem!
I removed the BIOS battery, waited 10 mins and then put it back, and now my computer turns off 3 seconds immediately after i press the power button! i can’t even get to the boot screen, it shuts down right away! (im writing from another computer)
Did you remove or disconnect anything else by mistake?
Your PSU is cheap junk and I wouldn’t be surprised if that’s what’s causing it, Maybe it was
already on it’s way out and just crapped out completely. Another possibility is overheating (CPU)
but unless you fiddled with the heatsink, That’s unlikely. Do you have another PSU to try, Or a digital multimeter?
oh another problem.. so how many years does this rig serves you?
you might want to change that cmos battery of yours.. or if still new/months/ 1 year old
then you just returned the battery loose.. recheck it again..
and about the PSU, got some point on it.. if you have some budget, try to consider
80+ certified PSU..
So far no luck..i have other PSU’s but they don’t fit the motherboard..also i tried putting other cmos batteries from older computers
, still the same problem. and my original battery is…3 years old i guess. so is the problem really in the PSU?
My moneys on the PSU. There is another way to test it. Usually when you press the power button, The motherboard sends a power on signal to the PSU, You can however bypass it and hotwire the PSU so it’d power up directly, Then if you see it still turns off, Then it has be at fault! Instructions:
1. Remove the power cord.
2. Disconnect the main (20/24PIN) connector from the motherboard and the 4PIN one too.
3. Take a metal paperclip and bend it, Put one end in the green wire and another in one of the blacks, Here’s an example:
http://www.motherboards.org/images/articles/guides/jumper_wire.jpg4. Make sure it’s either up in the air or place it on top of a cardboard (you don’t want the paperclip to touch the case!) 5. Re-attach the power cord and see what happens.
Ok, so i did as you said, i connected the metal paperclip and the fans of the PSU and the side fan (the one that’s for overheating i think) worked. so i think it means that the PSU is fine?
Do clarify, You mean it works period or works for a few seconds and turns off & on repeatedly?
test it on 1 to 2 hours and don;t turn it off.. just run the PSU
for a couple of hours and try to observe if it turns off and on..
and if the PSU runs fine.. then the mobo might be the culprit here..
I turn on the PC, and the PSU works fine, some fans as i mentioned worked and the computer did not turn off.
I don’t think it’s a hardware issue looking at the vid.
Have you tried repairing Windows by tapping F8 ?
^^Above – using a paperclip with the psu proves nothing except that it is running, it doesn’t show what voltages it is providing, so rather pointless to do this, you can see it’s working from his vid. If he wanted to rule out his psu then he could simply check the output voltages.
It’s always handy to invest in a psu tester like this if you don’t know how to read the service manual and wiring diagram, and use a multi-meter
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PC-20-24-Pins-Power-Supply-Tester-for-ATX-BTX-ITX-SATA-/320766467817You can get them much cheaper than that from Hong Kong.
this problem is not connected to the OS
because at the video, it took 20secs to turn the pc on..
maybe(just a guess) you motherboard is grounded to the case..
hmmm when you installed your motherboard on the case, have you seen some brass mount
for the screws? you should put masking tape on each of the brass mount before screwing the motherboard on the case..
I agree with it might be the case causing a short-circuit if the mobo is touching it. Try removing the motherboard from the case (place it on top of a cardboard or a wooden surface) and see how it goes. Also, I suggest you go to an electronics store and buy a digital multimeter, These are fairly cheap, And it’d enable you verify for 100% certainty if the PSU is in the clear or not. I’ll guide you later.
I don't think it's a hardware issue looking at the vid.I disagree, It happens before the OS even boots!
you can see it's working from his vidAnd you can also *see* that a new problem has occurred since then, But I guess
you didn’t bother reading thru it all before replying.
using a paperclip with the psu proves nothing except that it is running, it doesn't show what voltages it is providingIt proves that the motherboard shuts it off and that it’s not a problem with the PSU itself (the current issue is that the PSU turns off 3 secs after powering up when it’s connected to the mobo) You are right about the voltages, Maybe further testing is needed.
It's always handy to invest in a psu tester like this if you don't know how to read the service manual and wiring diagram, and use a multi-meterA multimeter alone would do IMO.
But I guess
you didn't bother reading thru it all before replying.
duh – of course I did, I am not a child you are trying to belittle. You need to get some people skills for your posts matey !
*edit* – it could be the BIOS – try re-flashing it.
Or, it could be a flaky SATA controller.
Actually it could be caused by a multitude of things, personally I don’t think it is hardware related, but what do I know, I only repair electronic equipment for a living.
duh - of course I did.I don’t believe you
Fact is you made no reference whatsoever to the new issue on your previous post (nor your current for that matter!)
You need to get some people skills for your posts matey !There is nothing wrong with my ppl skills, Your just mad because you know I’ve got a point!
it could be the BIOS - try re-flashing it.And how exactly is he suppose to do that when it won’t even power up properly?!?
personally I don't think it is hardware related, but what do I know, I only repair electronic equipment for a living.And your point is? So you think your some kinda computer expert just because you repair electronics? By that logic, A dentist can be a plastic surgeon too! These are two different fields of expertise!
I tried to put the mobo on top of a cardboard and still nothing changed =\
I tried to put the mobo on top of a cardboard and still nothing changed =\hmmm i don’t wan’t to conclude yet, you checked the psu
runs fine.. then after checking the motherboard out..
running on top of a cardboard with no metal connected
still the issue persist.. might me a motherboard culprit here..
not so sure.. better wait for
hmmm, try running the system without the videocard,
use onboard graphics on the motherboard
I tried to put the mobo on top of a cardboard and still nothing changed =\
hmmm i don't wan't to conclude yet, you checked the psu
runs fine.. then after checking the motherboard out..
running on top of a cardboard with no metal connected
still the issue persist.. might me a motherboard culprit here..
not so sure.. better wait for
hmmm, try running the system without the videocard,
use onboard graphics on the motherboardAlready tried running the sys without the VC..same situation. yea, better wait.
Hey, i have a problem with my computer, when i press the power button it takes like 10 seconds to get to the boot screen (before that it started instantly), and after that the windows won't start for the first time, only when i restart the computer with the reset button. I tried formatting to another windows, same problem. I tried updating the BIOS, same problem..i don't know what to do anymore!
thanks in advance I had the same problem mate, My PC would boot show the windows screen and then go blank. I would have to keep resetting it hoping it would boot up into the main windows screen. Most of the time i had to go into the bios setting and force it to boot from my harddrive as it would keep changing everything i changed in the bios setting back to it’s old non working setting. After abit i found out it was the BIOS battery that was the problem it was 99% dead but sometimes made it passed the boot screen. I just replaced the bios battery and reset the date and year and saved the setting and know it seems to work Hope my comment has been a little help.
Hey, i have a problem with my computer, when i press the power button it takes like 10 seconds to get to the boot screen (before that it started instantly), and after that the windows won't start for the first time, only when i restart the computer with the reset button. I tried formatting to another windows, same problem. I tried updating the BIOS, same problem..i don't know what to do anymore!
thanks in advance
I had the same problem mate, My PC would boot show the windows screen and then go blank. I would have to keep resetting it hoping it would boot up into the main windows screen. Most of the time i had to go into the bios setting and force it to boot from my harddrive as it would keep changing everything i changed in the bios setting back to it's old non working setting. After abit i found out it was the BIOS battery that was the problem it was 99% dead but sometimes made it passed the boot screen. I just replaced the bios battery and reset the date and year and saved the setting and know it seems to work Hope my comment has been a little help.Thank you for the comment, but unfortunately i encountered another problem (you can scroll through the comments to see it, if you could find a solution too i would appreciate it very much )
Well, There’s still the option of overheating, It’s unlikely, But worth checking anyhow.
Try removing the CPU cooler & re-seating it (you would also need to clean up the thermal paste and re-apply) Also, You should buy a digital multimeter to verify the PSU is okay. The test I told you to do proved the mobo shuts it off, But that doesn’t necessarily mean the mobo is bad, Maybe the PSU doesn’t provide stable voltages and it shuts it off as a protective measure.
Well, There's still the option of overheating, It's unlikely, But worth checking anyhow.
Try removing the CPU cooler & re-seating it (you would also need to clean up the thermal paste and re-apply) Also, You should buy a digital multimeter to verify the PSU is okay. The test I told you to do proved the mobo shuts it off, But that doesn't necessarily mean the mobo is bad, Maybe the PSU doesn't provide stable voltages and it shuts it off as a protective measure.Oh really? the paste thing should be cleaned up? because i heard it needs to be there to prevent overheating..but i guess you’re right. anyway, i did that, re-attached the CPU cooler and cleaned the thermal paste. still the same. and we own a multimeter and it showed that the PSU is working fine, kept providing electricity as normal. still the problem remains.
Oh really? the paste thing should be cleaned up? because i heard it needs to be there to keep overheating...That’s not what I said dude:
Try removing the CPU cooler & re-seating it (you would also need to clean up the thermal paste and re-apply)TP is essential!!
and we own a multimeter and it showed that the PSU is working fine, kept providing electricity as normal. still the problem remains.A digital one or a crappy analog? And what exactly did you measure?
Well it’s already too late for the paste (though i knew it was a really stupid move to do) but if there is a way to “install” it again i’ll be glad to know how. and i measured with a digital multimeter, and meausred the CPU for stable voltages and it was ok, no sudden stops.
It’s not too late, Just go to a computer store and buy one! Preferably arctic cooling MX4 if they have it. Just apply a sideways line, I.E:
http://www.circuitremix.com/images/124/apply_2.jpgAs far as the multimeter go, I get the distinct feeling that you have no clue how to use it to measure PSU voltages, You probably measured the direct voltage from the power cord, Right?
That’s not what I want you to do at all. The PSU voltages is what you should measure, Let me enlighten you:
1. Connect the probes to the multimeter (black to com, red to the other one)
If your multimeter has 3 inputs (10A one too) then connect the red probe to the other one (NOT to the 10A) 2. Set the dial to 20 DCV, If your not sure where that is, Take a picture and I’ll tell you.
3. Before I get to the how to, I’d like to point out the basics, You should remember that the black probe ALWAYS goes into a black wire. You can disconnect the probes *live* and insert em somewhere else (just be careful) and also, DO NOT turn off the multimeter before you disconnect the probes from the connector your testing.
4. Now to the actual testing, There are a few different ways to do it (and you should use all of em!)
Edit: I forgot for a moment that your PSU turns off when connected to the mobo, Only test the +5VSB when it’s connected to the mobo, The rest of em when it’s disconnected (keep the 24PIN disconnected while your testing via Molex/4PIN too and hotwire it with a paperclip to turn it on)
First way – +5VSB (standby power) & +3/5/12v using the main (20/24 PIN connector) you should do it while it’s still connected to the motherboard! Orange wire – +3V
Red wire – +5V
Yellow wire – +12v
Purple wire – +5VSB (You should measure this one while the PC is powered off with the power cord still attached!)
Remember what I said, The black probe always goes into a black wire, The red, Any of the above^.
Clearly, Your gonna have to insert the probes from the opposite end, Like in this pic for example:
http://www.hardwareheaven.com/guides/testingPSU/6.jpgDon’t be afraid to push the probes in, They’ll be solid as rock once you insert em correctly, Just don’t use too much force! Also, If you think your gonna be sloppy and you wanna avoid accidentally inserting the probes into the wrong wire, Then I suggest you first disconnect the power cord, And then insert em & re-attach the cord each time.
Second way – +12v using the 4PIN (CPU power) connector, Which looks like this:
http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/12v4pin.jpgYou can disconnect it from the motherboard, Or leave it plugged in, Doesn’t really matter as your gonna be measuring this one from the opposite end too.
Anyways, It has 2 Yellow wires (+12v) and 2 ground ones (Black) so your gonna have to measure
both Yellow’s (and preferably use a different Black wire for each, just for proper testing)
Third way – +5V/12V Using a molex connector, If you don’t know how it looks like, Refer to this pic:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/3/31/Molex_female_connector.jpgTo measure the +12V voltage, Put the Black probe into one of the Blacks and the Red into the Yellow, Like this:
http://www.hardwareheaven.com/guides/testingPSU/10.jpgTo measure the +5V voltage, Black probe>One of the blacks, Red probe>Yellow, Like this:
http://www.hardwareheaven.com/guides/testingPSU/9.jpgWrite everything down and report back with your findings! Goodluck.
Im gonna be honest with you,i don’t actually understand most of the things here but my uncle knows alot about electricity and measuring etc. and he read it and he said everything is OK with the PSU and the problem is not about the PSU. sorry that thats the least i can say.
duh - of course I did.
I don't believe you
Fact is you made no reference whatsoever to the new issue on your previous post (nor your current for that matter!)You mean this…
but there is a new problem! I removed the BIOS battery, waited 10 mins and then put it back, and now my computer turns off 3 seconds immediately after i press the power button! i can't even get to the boot screen, it shuts down right away! (im writing from another computer) That mobo has dual BIOS chips – I still think it is a BIOS issue, possibly both chips are damaged due to a power surge etc.
This can easily be diagnosed with the right equipment which I doubt the poster has but more than likely a local mom and pop repair shop will have.
OP – Do you use some form of anti-surge protection ?
Do you use power strips that have surge protection – and if so, when was the last time you changed them ? Do you still have any peripherals attached via USB or other method ?
You need to get some people skills for your posts matey !
There is nothing wrong with my ppl skills, Your just mad because you know I've got a point!You seem deluded also – I have had people pm’ing me for help as they don’t want to be spoken to like a child or bullied by you. Also, have you noticed at least 5 other posters who have good knowledge of pc’s, monitors and gaming, have stopped posting in this section, from several conversations I have had some are totally fed up with you. You have a pop at people for their grammar and style of posting, that is hard to read – and yet you do exactly the same thing. I am not mad I just think you are a tool, as do many others.
it could be the BIOS - try re-flashing it.
And how exactly is he suppose to do that when it won't even power up properly?!? I’m still not sure if he can get it booted into Windows as per his first post ?
when i reboot it with the reset button it starts fine But if you knew that old socket T board you would know that there are at least 3 ways to flash both BIOS chips, one does not require getting into Windows (by DOS). I’m sure again, a mom and pop store would test his mobo with a working psu, or he could simply borrow one from a good friend. A lot of people who upgrade to better self builds often keep the old system as a standby, or for spares.
personally I don't think it is hardware related, but what do I know, I only repair electronic equipment for a living.
And your point is? So you think your some kinda computer expert just because you repair electronics? By that logic, A dentist can be a plastic surgeon too! These are two different fields of expertise!A dentist can be trained with plastic surgeon skills, for when they remove impacted wisdom teeth through the cheek – I had two removed like that and have extremely un-noticeable tiny scars. maybe in your Country they don’t receive such training ?
Actually the main part of my job is data recovery, mainly for corporate clients, RAID setups and such, and HDD repairs (yes in a clean room etc) but I often end up having to repair pc’s when we go out on site. If “electronics” doesn’t cover that, (and I have degrees in electrical and electronic engineering) then I can’t see the point of your pointless analogy – what should I have said ? That is just a plain dumb statement. I can also fix VCR’s, TIVO’s clock radios, basically anything I have a bash at, fix them most of the time if they work out cheaper to repair than replacing – which may be the case with the OP’s pc. “Electronics” just seemed to be a word that encpasses what I do – but yet again you try to make me look a fool – which has just back-fired on you big time smarty pants !
I also can’t see why you go on about digital multimeters over crappy analog ones, analog ones can be extremely accurate, If he bought a psu tester like I said he could do it in less than 5 seconds (but that is digital) – the cheap ones just have led’s. He could also test his mobo with an intelligent debug card if so inclined.
As I mentioned earlier, it could be a multitude of things, yes you are correct in that it may be a hardware problem inside the pc, but it could also be outside, and there could be more than one problem that is involved.
It needs stripping and everything testing, if only to rule out hardware issues.
To the OP – what case do you have ? I would love to live around the corner from you and have a look at your system for you.
, I do agree with your recommendation of MX4, so you are a bit less than a tool, my mistake and have a nice day
Im gonna be honest with you,i don't actually understand most of the things here but my uncle knows alot about electricity and measuring etc. and he read it and he said everything is OK with the PSU and the problem is not about the PSU. sorry that thats the least i can say.That’s not much to go on, But if you trust him (and he did all the suggested tests) then it’s probably overheating or a bad mobo. As said before, Re-apply thermal paste.
You seem deluded also - I have had people pm'ing me for help as they don't want to be spoken to like a child or bullied by you. Also, have you noticed at least 5 other posters who have good knowledge of pc's, monitors and gaming, have stopped posting in this section, from several conversations I have had some are totally fed up with you. You have a pop at people for their grammar and style of posting, that is hard to read - and yet you do exactly the same thing. I am not mad I just think you are a tool, as do many others.You are talking nonsense! If certain people PM’d you for help it had NOTHING to do with em not liking me, It’s so obvious you made it up! Yet you call me childish
For the record, I don’t bully anyone and I’m usually very nice & helpful, I do tend to call it as I see it however and some people have a problem with that. I have no control over other posters and it’s really not my problem if they decide to leave. As far as you not being mad, It’s very evident that the opposite is true from the things you wrote. I don’t care about your personal opinion about me, You are free to think whatever you want.
A dentist can be trained with plastic surgeon skills, for when they remove impacted wisdom teeth through the cheekDentists & Plastic surgeons are trained to do very different procedures, So you cannot claim both to have the same skill set.
a mom and pop storeA what!?!
"Electronics" just seemed to be a word that encpasses what I do - but yet again you try to make me look a fool - which has just back-fired on you big time smarty pants !LOL. I did not try to make you look like a fool, I just voiced my opinion. And I don’t see how it *back-fired* on me. I never claimed that being an electronics engineer is a useless skill, Just that that skill alone doesn’t cut it when it comes to troubleshooting computer hardware & software problems (and that is what you originally implied in your previous post)
I also can't see why you go on about digital multimeters over crappy analog ones,analog ones can be extremely accurateBut not as accurate as digital ones!
Not as easy to read either.
, I do agree with your recommendation of MX4, so you are a bit less than a tool, my mistakeOh please, Why bother making a fake apology?
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